"Here comes the sun, little darlin' "

Apologies to the Beatles, but it does feel great to feel spring blooming here in New Zealand.  Days are long, and the longer "fine spells" are welcome after the winter doldrums.

Life goes on in a rainy boatyard.....not always so glamorous!!!

It's hard to believe it's been 3 months since the last post, but life really has felt a bit like the Kiwi version of Bill Murray's Groundhog Day.  The days blend into weeks and then into months, w/ a fairly regular routine....We're still out of the water, and living in the boatyard.  So the projects continue....boat work till the afternoon, then off to the gym, groceries, dinner and a movie.....repeat....

Cindi's recovery has gone reasonably well.  She continues with her excellent physical therapist, undergoing all types of manipulations and exercises, including acupuncture for both the back (helps heaps) and arm (ummmm...not as much).  The back is much better.  Her arm break didn't set quite correctly, so she's looking into options.  Possibly see a surgeon when we're back in Seattle for Thanksgiving to look into arthroscopic possibilities.

Rugby:  ALL BLACKS, Baby!!!  It's been rugby fever here in NZ, as the All Blacks won the World Cup for the 2nd time in a row (held every 4 years).  In the pub for the final game by 4:30 am to get a seat for the 5am start.  Great game, great outcome for NZ.  A real sense of pride for a little country of 4 million to win an international event like this. Richie McCaw and the boys got the job done in style!!!







Boat projects have grown as we take advantage of our year off in NZ, and the great exchange rate to get work done.  Here's the update (sorry, may be dull, but it's what the Bravo's do these days!!!)

Propeller shaft:  While repacking the stuffing box (important bit that keeps the sea water out of the boat, a good thing), we noticed a fair bit of corrosion of the shaft under the packing, a bad thing.  When stainless steel is wet without oxygen, it is prone to crevice corrosion which can extend deep.  Apparently we've been hauled out of the water so long, with water trapped in the stuffing box but not circulating, that it was the perfect breeding ground for this sort of thing.

Calling in a trusted mechanic for a look, he took a quick glance and right away said "I sure as hell wouldn't trust that thing to go to sea"!!!  Not a good thing.  So we needed a new shaft (1.5" diameter by about 9' long), new cutless bearings, and a new dripless shaft seal.  Done!

Rudder:  While working on the prop shaft, we spent a lot of time at Bravo's tail end.  Looking at the rudder one day we noticed a lot of hairline cracks on just the port side.  Grinding off all of the antifouling paint didn't give us a clue.

It ain't pretty work!!! 

Waddaya think.....remember "Back to the Future???

Not sure what the deal was, but it couldn't be good.  A rudder is not something you want to fail when it's blowing like stink in a big sea, which, of course, is when it most likely would!!!  So we decided to remove the rudder and do a bit of exploratory surgery.  Not an easy job.

The rudder lives below our bunk.  So the first thing to do was remove the bed to access the top of the rudder shaft.  Then all of the steering systems needed to be removed before Mr. Rudder would drop down.

Finally, using the jack out of our van, (aka Dirt Bravo) we lowered the beast to the ground.  Inspection proved really puzzling.

Fred Flintstone rudder repairs underway.  See the bog depth on the right.

The port side, with the cracks, had been faired with up to about 1/2" of bog (hard putty used to smooth the fiberglass).  Why?  And why none on the starboard side?  It looked like it had been there since new, over 30 years ago, but hard to say.  And why was it cracking now?  A fiberglass rudder typically has a stainless steel internal frame to transfer the steering loads from the shaft to the rudder blade.  Was this stainless steel giving us it's last gasp??   Do we need a new rudder?????   Ughhhhh.....


We chipped away the excess bog to figure things out.  It took Adam a few days of chiseling, at the Fred Flintstone Academy of Rudder Technology (fFART).  Then we drilled a bunch of holes into the rudder to figure out what the internal condition looked like.  The stainless steel looked ok, but there were some large voids where there would ordinarily be a rigid foam core.  WTF???

The only thing we can think of is that the port side of the rudder was facing the sun for the whole summer. With the black bottom paint it did get very hot, every day.  Perhaps the expansion/contraction of the thick bog finally did it in, causing the cracking.  Until we get a better explanation, that's our story and we're sticking to it!!!

Working with trusted shipwright Kris Dyer, veteran of the builds of the last two Kiwi America's Cup boats, we decided to fill the rudder with expanding epoxy foam, reglass the whole shebang, and call it good enough.  Hopefully this will be the right call!!!

Pencil lines show extent of voids that we probed with a wire

Propped up and ready for foaming

Kris pouring in one of many foam batches

Foam fully filling all the voids

4 layers of biaxial glass all around

Baking the whole rudder in makeshift autoclave to post cure the epoxy

After baking the rudder for about 8 hours (only burned up 1 space heater, and you can see the red water bucket in the background "just in case"!!!) we've been busily fairing both sides.  It's getting very smooth, so we may be ready for a trial fit tomorrow.

Planning the new sail

Other projects include new sails by sailmaker Dave Parr w/ Caliber Sails.  He built our new genoa this past season while we were in Fiji (measured before we left), and now we're having him build a new main, as our old one, after 12 years and MANY miles, didn't look like it had too many ocean miles remaining.

The fabric is plotted by the computer onto the fabric, ready for cutting

Coming together

We're also building a new nav station, as the old one was getting badly cut up over the years by the changing electronics.  The new panel will neaten things up a lot.  Cindi the varnish queen has been hard at work in the shed that we've commandeered, with both sewing and varnish projects.  And we're getting all new upholstery made for both the interior and cockpit.  Bravo's definitely stylin' these days!!!   Summer has finally arrived, it's TIME TO GO SAILING!!!

Another barrel of IPA ready for bottling!!!

We're now off to Seattle for our annual 3 week visit, then be back to Whangarei in early December.  With any luck we'll finish up the projects and be back in the water before Christmas.  Plan is to cruise around New Zealand until May.....stay tuned!

Mid winter update

Wow, it's been over two months since the last blog post.....time really does go by (though maybe not exactly "flying"!!!).

So, what's the news, on the different fronts here in Whangarei?

1.  Cindi's recovery is going extremely well!!!  Physical therapy has been very good, and the 2x daily PT exercises are quite intense and seem to be having good effect.  Her back is much better.  The arm break healed with a bit of misalignment, unfortunately.  While not disabling, it can be a bit painful if she moves it the wrong way.  Hopefully continued therapy will help it improve.

 2.  We've moved back aboard!!!  2 weeks ago we left our Marina Motel dirt dwelling, and moved back aboard Bravo.  The ladder was a bit intimidating for Cindi at first, as you might imagine, but the stomach butterflies have pretty much gone.  While we're not great fans of boatyard living, it really feels great to be back home.

3.  Project status:

Cindi's the undisputed varnish queen here in the boatyard, as we've commandeered more space for indoor project refinish work.  Companionway ladders, instrument coaming boards, bits and bobs of trim, all are getting her attention.  Sweet as!!

Electrical:  The new panel is nearly complete, just awaiting the arrival of new meters, a new product design supposed to be released for shipping any day.  But it looks and works great, a huge upgrade from the 30 year old jury rigged equipment.

Instruments:  All installed, and talking to one another like old friends!!!

Fractured glass ground away, center mold in place waiting for glass

Keel repair:  Glass repair complete, fairing done!!!  Just need to wait about 1 more week until it cures so that we can put on the 10 coats of epoxy barrier coat and 2 coats of anti fouling paint, and we can cross that one off the list!!

10-15 layers of glass per side

Glassed and faired, strong as new!!!

Sweet As !!!

Mast:  Mast is fully rewired, and crane stepped it back in place without a hitch!!!  New furler for inner staysail will make foredeck work in a blow that much easier!!!

Wires, then mast are S-L-O-W-L-Y lowered into the deck

 Other projects we've taken on include a new nav station (over time as instruments and radios get replaced, the old panel was looking pretty cut up), addition of VERY strong stainless steel anchor points at the transom to handle the loads of our new emergency drogue anchor, a new lithium house battery bank, new bilge pumps, and new sails.  Bravo is making the most of our time (and pocketbook!!) spent in New Zealand.....

Other than boat work, we've been going to the nearby gym every day to try to stay a bit active through the winter.  We have gotten out for some local hiking, and this weekend we'll head up to the Bay of Islands to celebrate our 25th anniversary at the 3 day Jazz and Blues Festival.....8 venues, heaps of tasty sounding acts.....should be a great time!!!

Adam's been racing on Sundays with a fun local boat.....nice to remember how to sail again!!!  Good crew, good fun!

The 2nd batch of IPA brew proved as tasty as the first, so it will be nearly time to brew up the 3rd barrel!!!  

Our house has not yet sold, unfortunately.  Many have seemed in love with the place, except for the roof.  An old shake roof, we knew it was likely in need of replacement.  It just seemed to throw up a big red flag at all potential buyers.  So we've decided to replace it, and put that uncertainty to bed.  The work will be done next week, and fingers are crossed it will do the trick!

Back in Whangarei, with any luck we'll splash in a month or so, living on the water once again!!!  As you can probably tell, New Zealand immigration approved our request for a 1 year visa extension due to Cindi's injuries, so we've become "instant kiwi's" for a year.  We really love NZ, and there are LOTS worse places to hang out!!!  All is well with the Bravo crew.

View from the deck of our boatyard bach (vacation home).

"If man can build it, man can fix it......

A kiwi shipwright friend always used to remind us of this when boat projects seemed a bit overwhelming.  I suppose the corollary might be, "If man f*cks it up, man HAS to fix it"

We've been hauled out for almost 3 weeks now.  Many projects underway, many more yet to begin.  None are yet completed!!!  Or so it seems.....

The first of the majors is to fix the "coral bite" we received in the Fulaga pass last season in Fiji.  ( see http://svbravo.blogspot.co.nz/2014/08/fulaga-fijia-magical-experience-part-1.html  for the recount of how it happened)

After the incident on the reef, we dove the boat and decided that the damage was "just a flesh wound", not structural, and that the most sensible approach was to continue our cruising season and worry about the repairs when we arrived back in New Zealand.

Well we're back, and it's time to roll up our sleeves and begin.

As you can see from the photos, the trailing edge of the keel took the worst hit, when we backed off the reef.

OUCHHH!!!

Starboard side shows how the delaminated glass flexed

Forward edge fared better, just some scrapes.  (BTW, that's not "night soil" in the bucket....just galley sink waste!!!)

Adam prepares for the operating room

 A few inches of shattered glass needs to be removed.  We've decided to do most of the grinding before we leave to travel to New Zealand's south island, to be sure all is nice and dry when we return to continue the repairs.

Important safety reminder:  Always wear dustproof flip flops like these when grinding fiberglass!!!

BRAVO's keel is lead encapsulated in fiberglass, and happily there is no structural damage to the boat itself.  We were also concerned that water might have migrated beneath the epoxy barrier coat, but some exploratory holes shows all along the bottom edge of the keel appears dry.

Maybe we should just embed a few shark teeth in epoxy and call it good???

About down to solid glass

And this is how we'll leave her for the next 6 weeks or so.   (Remember that mantra...."If man can build it, man can fix it"???     Well, repeat it often.....and loudly; we do at least once a day!!!!!  


BONUS QUESTION:  What is the item pictured below?

If you guessed a gizmo from a passing Russian spaceship you were.........


ummmmmmm...............wrong.

Old and the new sump boxes

We decided to replace our 30 year old shower / head sink sump, as it was hiding all sorts of sludge, an old wrench, cable ties, rusty hose clamps, and other treasures of the bilge inaccessibly beneath, which were clogging our bilge pumps and switches.  Rather than pay $500 for a new Whale box, we made up this one for less than $100.  Even has a few extra hose barbs.  Has a switch inside which turns on a remote pump when water enters the box.  Looks a bit weird, but hey, it lives in the bilge!!!





Cindi's been hard at work on new mozzie screens for BRAVO.  We'll be heading into malaria country next season, and mozzies were getting under the old screens with their little top hats on.  The new screens are sweet as!!!  She even sewed up a set of magnetic ones for Dirt Bravo, our camper van.

Trial fit seems about right

And speaking of D.B........here's the latest kit for our little land yacht, will make the interior a bit roomier!  A fold-up bumper shelf thingie, holds a cooler/chilly bin, big plastic tote, and whatever else we strap on.  Had to weld up a trailer hitch, but should work ok.  We're low riding now!!!

Hey, the BRAVO stable has a new steed.....a brand spanking new Chinese P.O.S. bicycle!!!  We were looking for a cheap transportation old beater bike to run errands from the boat yard, but they were all way over priced, hard to find anything for under $100.  So we found a NEW beater instead, at a big box store.  $76 NZD  ($55 USD) before tax.  18 speeds.......just over 4 bucks / speed !!!! (though only about 3 of them actually work.......).  We really hate to support the disposable consumer import mentality, but this was hard to pass up.....will give it to a needy kid or the local hospice 2nd hand shop when we leave.  Sure a far cry from our race bikes of the old days!!!

Adam continued to give back to his geek lifestyle yesterday, when he served as a Volunteer Examiner (VE) to give ham radio exams to cruisers.  3 passed, and will now have US ham radio call signs, and be able to use the radios on their boats for email, weather, nets, and general chit chat.  Sponsored by the Seven Seas Cruising Association, we'll do another session in April.

That's all the news for now.  On Wednesday we'll be packing up Dirt Bravo and heading down to the south island for 6 weeks of adventures.....stay tuned!

And in the meantime, GO SEAHAWKS in tomorrows Superbowl!!!!!

Farewell New Zealand !!!

Bravo tugging at her dock lines (friends' boat, Rubicon, is just behind)

YEEE HAH!!!  We're ready, BRAVO's ready, and we think we have a halfway decent weather window to leave NZ tomorrow.

The past few weeks have been a hectic flurry of last minute repairs, provisioning, stowing an amazing amount of stuff below, lashing things on deck, seeing friends, and all the other things that make departure tough after 7 months.

Our watermaker pump finally arrived after being stuck in customs for several days.  I picked it up at the DHL depot, raced home, tore open the box, drilled and mounted it in place, plumbed all the hoses.  Went to wire the bad boy up, and what the hell?????  There are 6 wires, but the diagram has 7.....A call to the shop in California confirms worst fears.....they shipped a 50 hz motor because we're in NZ, but BRAVO is a 60 hz boat...really not good at all!!!  But we wired it anyway, and will be able to run it under reduced output so as not to burn up the motor.  Until we get to Fiji, where CruiseRO will have a new 60 hz motor waiting for us.  Great customer support by them, thanks Rich!

Old, corroded alternator

Then, while installing a new alternator to replace the one that was toasted by leaking coolant from the engine, the bloody thing slipped and touched the hot terminal to the engine.  SPARK!!!  Yowza, it made quite a bang.  No fuses blew, but the engine control panel lost its alarm buzzer that alarms for all sorts of engine faults.  Damn it, are we EVER going to leave New Zealand???  We figured we blew up a diode on this tiny circuit board, but they were all good.  A replacement board here in NZ was $1050 NZ (about $850 US).  A call to Yanmar US confirms this...the damned tiny board is $650 US +tax +shipping.....a wash.

Took all manuals of the electrical system to trace the problems.....and even then...

Took a full day to trouble shoot the rascal.  We wound up unsoldering the little piezo electric buzzer and soldering on a new $10 buzzer....."right as rain"!!!!!  A damned buzzing squeak sounded like music to our ears!!!

$1000 circuit board???  You've gotta be kidding, Yanmar!!!  (they weren't)

Yesterday we motored the 11 miles down river from Whangarei Town Basin to the marina at the mouth of the river for customs/immigration check out from the country.  We've filled out the forms and submitted them, including full descriptions and a photo of the boat for rescue purposes.  It happens around here.  Weather patterns are some of the more challenging in the world, due to the unending series of troughs and highs which come across the Tasman Sea from Australia to the west and New Caledonia to the north.  This time of year they're spaced close together, so you typically don't get one window with great weather the whole way for the 1200 mile passage.  You just try to limit the crap as much as possible....."prepare for the worst.....hope for the best" really applies here.

Leaving NZ is surprisingly emotional for us.  The town of Whangarei has been our home for the past 7 months, the longest we've touched down anywhere since leaving Seattle 4 years ago.  We've thoroughly enjoyed the warmth and hospitality shown to us at every turn.  Made some great friends in kiwis and non kiwis as well, and learned a lot about boat systems, repairs, and construction.  (As friend and shipwright Chris always said.....if man can build it, man can fix it......he is right.)  The kiwi "can do" attitude is pervasive.  And unlike some places we've been, kiwi's typically WILL get it done, and done well.  "No worries, mate", means just that.

People like Sharon and Brian at the Town Basin Marina, and Charlie and Doug at the Dockland 5 haulout yard were perfect hosts.  Rigger Brian, Glen, Jade, Trevor.....the list goes on.  We were made to feel welcome at every turn.  Kiwis just seem to have helpfulness and hospitality in their DNA, it happened over and over.  As friend and fellow cruiser Fatty Goodlander says, "we vote with our keels" (and he's spent 5 recent cyclone seasons here in Whangarei).   These folks must be doing something right!


What about the $$$?????

Many folks speak about NZ's high prices.  On the surface, things are indeed expensive.  More so these days for us American visitors, as the US:NZ $$$ exchange is the worst it's been in years from our perspective.  Was 50% just a few years ago, now just a 15% discount.....ouchh!

That said, we have really found the VALUE of NZ to be terrific.  And while we are retired and need to conserve $$$ wherever possible, value is really important to us, not just the initial cost of widgets or services.  Do you get what you pay for???  It's true that you may pay more for some / most things (not everything), but we feel not much more than in the US.  (gas being a major exception.....regular gas runs around $2 US/ liter)  We believe that the caliber of boat work is unequaled anywhere else, certainly not in the US.  We're talking every aspect of the work, and as you know, we have first hand experience with a lot!!!  Rigging, welding, carpentry, design, painting, mechanics.....the list goes on.  And it's not just the one or two champs who make the difference.  The "depth of the bench" in NZ is also amazing, especially for a nation of just over 4 million folks.  Parts can be hard to come by for unique items, but if you try, it'll happen.

Unlike Latin America, where quality of the work could often be dodgy (though cheap), we really found that we got what we paid for here in NZ.  Sales tax in Seattle is around 10%, here in NZ visiting yachts don't pay GST (15%) on any boat related work or parts.  Restaurants are a bit higher, perhaps, than the US, but there is no tipping here in NZ.....they pay their help a fair living wage instead.  So knock 20% off the price of your meal and bar tab.  We sorely miss $4 street taco dinners in Mexico, and $1 beers, or $3.50 almuerzo 3 course lunches in Ecuador.  But NZ is a 1st world country, and you do indeed have to pay to play here.

Slip rates are on par with much of the US......less than some areas such as southern California.

All this said, we're terrifically excited to be hoisting sails tomorrow and heading north at last.  New Zealand winters are cold....we've had frost on the decks already.  The tropics beckon.  Our itinerary for this coming season includes exploration of Fiji and possibly Vanuatu if time (hard to pack it all in 4-5 months).  We'll then make the return passage to New Zealand, where we will spend the next 6 month cyclone season.  Hopefully without the extensive repairs, we'll be able to spend our time cruising by sea and land around the country.

Gotta go, theres more to tie down up on deck!!!