About Us

Welcome to our blog, describing our voyage aboard the two BRAVO's; the first boat a Kelly Peterson 46 with homeport in Seattle, Washington. The second is a Boreal 52, launched in Treguier, France in February 2020.

We headed south from Seattle in 2010, and have been voyaging in one form or another since. Cheers, Adam and Cindi


"As for me, I am tormented by an everlasting itch for things remote. I love to sail forbidden seas, and land on barbarous coasts." -Herman Melville, 1844



Showing posts with label Otavalo. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Otavalo. Show all posts

Wednesday, July 18, 2012

Around Otavalo...."breathtaking"!!!

Lago Cuitocha, w/ cuy butt island on left
We've had a great couple of days exploring the Otavalo region.  Two days ago, we rented mountain bikes, and with our excellent local guide, Luis, we headed up to Lago Cuitocha, at 10,065 feet above sea level.  The lake, an old volcano crater, is named (in Quechua language) for one of the two islands in the middle, which looks like a cuy's hind end.  It does, sort of!!

Adjusting bikes at the start

Bikes had "US Aid" stickers.  Not sure significance, but if America is helping to put folks on bikes, we're all for it!!
Happily we took the bikes to the lake by truck from the town of Cotacachi, but still had a few hundred feet of climbing to do.  Yikes, just 2 days from our sea level home, the climbs had these "sea slugs" puffing like old 3-pack-a-day smokers !!!

Luis at start of single track trails
But at last we started down the great single track trail.  Really a fun descent, the trail eventually widened out onto dirt roads, that we followed for many miles through indigenous villages and farmland. 

As it was Sunday, we continually passed local families on the way to church, and with the exception of some curmudgeonly dogs who weren't aboard with the whole biking program, it was a really beautiful ride.  Luis, from a nearby community, gave us great insight into the local culture and lifestyles of the indigenous people.

Eventually we were back in Cotacachi, where we returned the bikes and hopped a bus back to Otavalo.  Thanks, Luis, for a fantastic ride!











View from our hotel room.
Yesterday we decided to go hiking in the hills around Otavalo.  Starting out from our hotel room, we found the dirt and cobble track to follow up toward Parque Condor, a raptor rehabilitation center that we'd read about.






The route climbed continually through beautiful Andean farmland, as we hiked our way up toward the park.












Eventually we arrived at Parque Condor, and learned that the "daily" live flying demonstrations were done every day except Monday, the day of our visit.  Nonetheless we were allowed to enter the park and wander around the various hawks, eagles, kestrels and of course Andean condors, the largest birds in the world.

It was a beautiful place, perched on the top of the hill, with spectacular views all around.  Most of the birds are caged in large, well fitted out cages, where they are either kept until well enough to release back into the wild, or remain if their injuries keep them from reentering the wild environment.

Black chested buzzard eagle, with bald eagle in the background

Andean condor
Harris hawk




When we were done with our visit, we asked the owner about a trail that we'd heard about to a waterfall in the valley below.  His reaction was pretty funny.  He looked us each up and down, stroked his chin, and said "I don't think that trail's for you"!!!!!!  I mean, really!!!!!!!!!  Well, obviously the gauntlet was thrown, and down we went.

Although a fairly steady slope for the most part over a faint overgrown track, we eventually hit the steep parts, and swung like monkeys from the young eucalyptus trees as we made our way down the steep ravines to the river below.

 The trail led us to a town, where we followed an abandoned railroad track back to Otavalo.  All in all, a beautiful 9 mile hike through the Andean foothills.

Today we'll take a bus back to Quito, and another to Latacunga, where we'll spend several days in the region of the volcano Cotapaxi.





Monday, July 16, 2012

Ecuador rambles begin.....

A couple of days ago, we buttoned up 'Bravo' as well as we could.  All on deck which could not be locked was secured below, lines to our two mooring anchors were checked and rechecked, and we (more than a bit nervously) left her behind in Bahia while we head out for about one month to explore Ecuador.

Took an 8 hour bus ride to Quito.  Wow, what a change to be in a truly big city!!!  Traffic and crowds are not our day-to-day these days, and it was quite a shock to the system.  But Quito is a vibrant, interesting city, perched high in the Andes.  At 9,350 feet above sea level, it is the highest capitol city in the world.  These sea-level dwelling boat slugs noticed it right away, as we hiked up the 3 flights of stairs to our room at Hostel Sakti.  A nice, clean place to hang our hats, and it's hard to beat the $20/night cost.

With 7 images of Jesus in the cockpit, we felt safe indeed!!!
The next day, after a bit of shopping at the local climbing/trekking shops which are as common as rain drops in Seattle, we hopped another bus to Otavalo, an indigenous small city high in the mountains.  From what we read, the town should provide a great base of operations for several days, starting with the weekly Saturday market the morning after arrival.

This market, the largest in Latin America, actually has 3 parts. 

First, is the animal market, where indigenous people from all of the surrounding villages come to buy and sell critters.  As the saying goes....."they didn't throw this party for us!!!...."

It was an overwhelming scene, and not for those with strong P.E.T.A. sensitivities.  Animals of all sorts were being pushed, pulled, and shoved all around, as they were inspected and sold to their new owners.  We're talking large as well as small, old and young. 

So here are a few shots that tell the story.....













After a bit of walking about it was breakfast time, and the food stalls were smelling pretty good, even if we couldn't identify most of the delicacies.  Cindi settled on a hunk of pork with hominy, potatoes, a fried plantain, and salad.  Tasty business!!!

Adam was looking for a barbequed cuy (guinea pig), but apparently those just aren't suitable breakfast fare!!!


Cuy ladies looking for the big score!
But we did see lots of cuy changing hands, and soon the "cuy ladies" lining the path became a common sight.

Ahhhhh....here's a tasty one!!!
There were deals galore for the shrewd negotiator!!





Cindi was befriended by a woman selling finely woven scarves for $3.50 each.  The negotiations were fun for both sides, and we're the proud owners of four of the beauties.













Otavalo "drive-in movie"....the screen was small, but the interest was intent
After the animal market we headed up to the weekly street market, where vendors set up street stalls throughout the city.  Anything imagined could be found, and we spent hours wandering the streets.


"Snake oil" seller shows the magic of his elixer for eye health.....

After wandering the streets for a few hours, we moved to the permanent market, set up in "Poncho Square".  Here we found all sorts of weavings, grains and spices, leather work, and more.  Truly a hard to believe rabbit warren of smells, colors and people, it went on and on and on.  And yes, we bought a few things, after we found the post office will ship back to 'Bravo' in Bahia, to be waiting at the marina when we return in a month.





All in all, a great welcome to the wonders of Ecuador that await!!!