Here's another trick question:
What do the following 2 images have in common???
Answer: They're both HAPPY HAMSTERS!!!
Cindi's been hard at work studying for her ham radio exam(s) for the past few days. Yesterday she successfully passed the Technician and General class exams, so she's joined Adam in achieving the exalted status of Geek !!!!! Who'd a thunk it???!!!
Meanwhile, boat work continues...removed, and rebedded 4 more porthole lights over the past couple of days. The heat of the summer in the Sea of Cortez has dried out much of the caulking, creating leaks where none existed up in the Pacific NW. And rumor has it that it rains now and then in Central America!!! Today will start to rebuild the watermaker with a new membrane and pressure tube.
About Us
Welcome to our blog, describing our voyage aboard the two BRAVO's; the first boat a Kelly Peterson 46 with homeport in Seattle, Washington. The second is a Boreal 52, launched in Treguier, France in February 2020.
We headed south from Seattle in 2010, and have been voyaging in one form or another since. Cheers, Adam and Cindi
"As for me, I am tormented by an everlasting itch for things remote. I love to sail forbidden seas, and land on barbarous coasts." -Herman Melville, 1844
"As for me, I am tormented by an everlasting itch for things remote. I love to sail forbidden seas, and land on barbarous coasts." -Herman Melville, 1844
Tuesday, February 28, 2012
Thursday, February 23, 2012
Tomatlan Rambles
OK, 'Bravo' reaches a milestone.....2 blog posts in as many days. Are we turning over a new leaf??? You (and we, for that matter!) will just have to check in and find out!!!
Cindi and I did a great hike over on the opposite shore of Bandaras Bay, across from our current location at La Cruz. It took us 4 city buses to reach the town of Tomatlan, past Mismaloya, where John Huston filmed the classic movie, Night of the Iguana with Ava Gardner and Richard Burton a year or two ago.
At Tomatlan the road ended. Along the shore, the jungle comes right down to the water, and an excellent foot path connects several small villages. This path runs up and down continuous sets of stairs as it snakes up and over various rocky headlands. All in all, it felt great to get out and stretch our legs.
When we came upon this amazing stone wall surrounding a villa in the middle of the jungle, we felt like we were in a scene from Apocalypse Now, expecting to see Brando sitting behind the wall with his native minions. In fact, the house seemed deserted, but in the gathering darkness, it allowed our imaginations some tasty heebie jeebies!!!
And here's a parting shot from our time spent a few weeks ago in Los Muertos, before crossing over from Baja.......
Cindi and I did a great hike over on the opposite shore of Bandaras Bay, across from our current location at La Cruz. It took us 4 city buses to reach the town of Tomatlan, past Mismaloya, where John Huston filmed the classic movie, Night of the Iguana with Ava Gardner and Richard Burton a year or two ago.
At Tomatlan the road ended. Along the shore, the jungle comes right down to the water, and an excellent foot path connects several small villages. This path runs up and down continuous sets of stairs as it snakes up and over various rocky headlands. All in all, it felt great to get out and stretch our legs.
When we came upon this amazing stone wall surrounding a villa in the middle of the jungle, we felt like we were in a scene from Apocalypse Now, expecting to see Brando sitting behind the wall with his native minions. In fact, the house seemed deserted, but in the gathering darkness, it allowed our imaginations some tasty heebie jeebies!!!
And here's a parting shot from our time spent a few weeks ago in Los Muertos, before crossing over from Baja.......
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| On the beach with Bill and Julie from 'Voyager' |
Labels:
Los Muertos,
Mismaloya,
Puerto Vallarta hike,
Tomatlan
Wednesday, February 22, 2012
Trick question.....
When is a kitchen not a kitchen???
Answer: When it has no walls, stove, sink, lights, or cabinets!!!
What were we thinking???!!! About a month ago, Adam and Cindi headed up to Seattle to check out our house and get it ready to re-rent. Our previous tenants' lease had expired, they'd moved on, and it was time to find new tenants. We thought it might be a good opportunity to give the kitchen a minor upgrade, with a bit more pizzazz, a few new appliances, make it easier to rent. Reasonable, right??? Well, can you spell S.C.O.P.E. C.R.E.E.P.????? Thought so...... "What were you thinking???" (or to put it another way......"WTF, you guys???")
One thing led to another, and the next thing we knew, Adam was up to his eyeballs demolishing the old kitchen down to the wall studs. New plumbing, electrical, lighting, cabinets, etc. etc..... One month passed by pretty quickly, as the beast took shape.
Granite counters, tile, and the vent hood / soffit over the peninsula will go in during the first week in March, with the door/drawer fronts to follow.
Our friend Kevin will finish the project up, as Adam really needed to get out of the 40 degree drizzle, and fast!!! Yesterday he flew back down to join Cindi in La Cruz.
All in all, kind of a fun project, but it was very weird to make such an abrupt change from one world to another. It felt like it had been a long time since so much time was spent as a landlubber. Wonderful to have an opportunity to see old friends, but also made us appreciate how much we really love the life we're leading aboard 'Bravo'. The house has now been rented with a two year lease, so let the 'Bravo' adventure continue south!
While Adam was working on the house, Cindi has been hard at work on 'Bravo' projects. New sail and scuba tank covers, varnishing, and provisioning the boat for the coming trip to central America. We have some additional rigging and watermaker projects (have you loyal readers heard that before???) to take care of in La Cruz, but should be ready to head south within the next two weeks.
La Cruz, one of our favorite Mexican towns (or towns anywhere, for that matter!!) is a real bee hive of activity, with many boats staging here for their Pacific crossing to the Marquesas. Most of the "Coconut Milk Run" fleet leaves in March, so folks are really busy around here as the excitement builds.
Our plans are to leave here shortly and head south to El Salvador, exploring as we go. We then plan on being in Ecuador by early June, to be out of the Central American summer rains (and lightning!). Several months in Ecuador should allow for some great travel adventures throughout South America, before we set our sights for the South Pacific. Stay tuned!
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| Demolition nearly complete. |
Answer: When it has no walls, stove, sink, lights, or cabinets!!!
What were we thinking???!!! About a month ago, Adam and Cindi headed up to Seattle to check out our house and get it ready to re-rent. Our previous tenants' lease had expired, they'd moved on, and it was time to find new tenants. We thought it might be a good opportunity to give the kitchen a minor upgrade, with a bit more pizzazz, a few new appliances, make it easier to rent. Reasonable, right??? Well, can you spell S.C.O.P.E. C.R.E.E.P.????? Thought so...... "What were you thinking???" (or to put it another way......"WTF, you guys???")
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| Adam's work here is done....time to head south!!! |
Granite counters, tile, and the vent hood / soffit over the peninsula will go in during the first week in March, with the door/drawer fronts to follow.
Our friend Kevin will finish the project up, as Adam really needed to get out of the 40 degree drizzle, and fast!!! Yesterday he flew back down to join Cindi in La Cruz.
All in all, kind of a fun project, but it was very weird to make such an abrupt change from one world to another. It felt like it had been a long time since so much time was spent as a landlubber. Wonderful to have an opportunity to see old friends, but also made us appreciate how much we really love the life we're leading aboard 'Bravo'. The house has now been rented with a two year lease, so let the 'Bravo' adventure continue south!
While Adam was working on the house, Cindi has been hard at work on 'Bravo' projects. New sail and scuba tank covers, varnishing, and provisioning the boat for the coming trip to central America. We have some additional rigging and watermaker projects (have you loyal readers heard that before???) to take care of in La Cruz, but should be ready to head south within the next two weeks.
La Cruz, one of our favorite Mexican towns (or towns anywhere, for that matter!!) is a real bee hive of activity, with many boats staging here for their Pacific crossing to the Marquesas. Most of the "Coconut Milk Run" fleet leaves in March, so folks are really busy around here as the excitement builds.
Our plans are to leave here shortly and head south to El Salvador, exploring as we go. We then plan on being in Ecuador by early June, to be out of the Central American summer rains (and lightning!). Several months in Ecuador should allow for some great travel adventures throughout South America, before we set our sights for the South Pacific. Stay tuned!
Wednesday, January 18, 2012
ooooooh......La........La....!!!
La Paz to La Cruz, that is...
But first...the Flying Zuchini Brothers met Barnum and Bailey!!! With friends Mark and Vicki we spent our last La Paz evening at the circus which was in town...Circo Rolex. What a kick!!! If you've never been to a Mexican circus.....well, ya don't want to miss it! Great acrobats, miniature horses, dancing big horses, tigers jumping through fire hoops and riding on swings (no local chapters of PETA around here!!!), and hundreds of teenage girls screaming at the top of their lungs for their favorite acrobatic studs!!! Ya gotta love it!!! Folks even get their pictures taken with a couple of the big cats on kitty downers at the end!!! The rascals could hardly keep their eyes open!!! Check out the attached cheezy video for from Bravo Productions for a peek at the fun...
It was with mixed feelings that we left the Sea of Cortez, which has been our spectacular home for the past 9 months. But other adventures are calling, and they're calling us from the south. We had a beautiful passage from La Paz over to La Cruz de Huanacaxtle, another of our favorite towns in Mexico. First day was a mixed bag of conditions, some sailing, some motoring, as we worked our way around to Bahia de Los Muertos. Spent a day here, waiting with other boats for the forecasted northerly wind to fill in, as we had a roughly 350 mile passage to La Cruz ahead of us. Well, the wind filled in as predicted. We set the sails on a port tack shortly after leaving Muertos, and 56 hours later, we arrived, with the sails still on port tack!!! Not a single tack or jibe in over two days! Conditions were beautiful, with winds varying up to around 25 knots, day and night. A bit lumpy for the first day, but once we left the Sea behind us and got into the long Pacific swells, life was good!!!
We're now in the La Cruz anchorage, along with over 60 other boats...we hear an all time record for here. Had fun racing as crew aboard a friend's catamaran this past weekend in the Vallarta Cup series...good to get out on the race cource again after living the cruising life for the past 15 months or so.
BREAKING NEWS FLASH!!!!!
Do any of you remember the old claims to "double your horsepower while using 50% less fuel" with some mystery product of the JC Whitney Catalog??? Well, I'm here to tell you, we achieved a similar miracle aboard 'Bravo'!!! Since putting in our new engine a couple of years ago, we've been disappointed in the speed under power. At engine cruising RPM we'd typically run at around 5.8 knots, while similar boats with the same engine ran at nearly a whole knot quicker. This translates most importantly to range under power, as moving 15% faster for the same RPM means that much better fuel economy. We dialed in maximum pitch on the Vari-Prop propeller, and that was as good as it got. When we last hauled in the US, we had the stops relocated by the manufacturer to allow more pitch. I estimated the setting at the time, but the performance didn't improve much. Well, when we were out of the water in La Paz, I adjusted the prop to allow nearly 2" more pitch. (What is "pitch" you might ask??? Well, think as a propeller as a big screw as it turns, "screwing" itself through the water. The "pitch" is the distance it would travel with one revolution.)
The results have been tremendous! We can now motor at the same RPM as before (2400) at around 7 knots, or throttle back to 2000 RPM, using much less fuel, and still making nearly 6 knots!! Yee hah!! This additional range may come in handy as we work our way through the doldrums down south, or fight the Humbolt current as we head to Ecuador.
That's about all of the news for now. We'll be back in Seattle for some business for about a week, the last week of January, before continuing our journey southward.
Monday, January 2, 2012
Happy New Years from La Paz
It's been a BUSY past couple of weeks here in and around one of our favorite cities in Mexico. First, friends from Seattle, Rich, Laura, and Zach came down for a Christmas visit. Together we ventured forth to set a new record.....how many fun activities can we cram into a short 5 days, especially in such a laid back environment as La Paz??? Well, the Guiness Book may not be knocking down our hatches with the trophy, but we really had a great time trying!!! First, we headed up to Los Islotes, a couple of islands that we explored back in May, and the home of a very active sea lion colony.
The water was colder than before, but the critters were as feisty as ever. We gave the ornery barking bulls a wide berth, while the females, juveniles, and teenagers had a great time playing with us. Had a great hour or so in the water with them before heading back to La Paz.
The next day, a strong norther blew in for the next 6 days or so. With winds up to 35 knots even in the marina, the port captain closed the port to boats leaving. No worries there, we had no intention of fighting the 8 foot high buffaloes running out in the sea (the Sea of Cortez is notorious for short, steep, closely spaced waves affectionately known as buffaloes). As weather guru Don Anderson said, "This norther is going to blow the skin off your Christmas rice pudding!!!
So, what to do???? Shopping in town for souvenirs and presents can only go so long..... We decided to hire a guide service to head out for a day of horseback riding!!! You heard that right, gang...the intrepid Bravo crew was heading out via yet another new mode of travel. Figured it would lead to plenty of photo op's, if not opportunities for some new injuries!!!
After driving out to his enormous ranch (started by "el abuelo de mi abuelo", his grandfather's grandfather) the five of us saddled up with our weathered ranch owner/trusty guide, Rosario, and headed up a steep arroyo to the heights above the sea. It was a great time for all of us (not sure if the beasts of burden would agree!!!)
All in all, it was a great ride, seeing country that most cruisers don't experience. When we got back to the ranch, our guides prepared a tasty bbq with arracherra beef and cheese made on the ranch. Zach set up a "slackline" between two trees, and all who wanted to gave it a go (including our guides). A good time had by all, before making our way back to town.
We've continued to be busy with boat chores. Minor sail repairs, varnishing, full boat waxing, tracing electrical gremlins, etc. Had a fun new years party last night at the local cruiser's hangout, Club Cruceros. The toast was made at midnight ZULU time (Greenwich Mean Time), which around here is 5pm local time! Made it easy for all of the grey beards and their crews to get back to their boats before dark, if they wanted (the 'Bravo' team, though, as you'd hope, did stay out after dark!)
Well, that's it for this first blog post of 2012. So as we enter another chapter in this journey, we'd like to wish all of you a very happy new year, filled with happiness, adventure, and discovery. Central America, here we come!!!
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| "OK, guys, what do we do for our next trick???" |
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| This guy kept bumping the camera lens! |
The water was colder than before, but the critters were as feisty as ever. We gave the ornery barking bulls a wide berth, while the females, juveniles, and teenagers had a great time playing with us. Had a great hour or so in the water with them before heading back to La Paz.
The next day, a strong norther blew in for the next 6 days or so. With winds up to 35 knots even in the marina, the port captain closed the port to boats leaving. No worries there, we had no intention of fighting the 8 foot high buffaloes running out in the sea (the Sea of Cortez is notorious for short, steep, closely spaced waves affectionately known as buffaloes). As weather guru Don Anderson said, "This norther is going to blow the skin off your Christmas rice pudding!!!
So, what to do???? Shopping in town for souvenirs and presents can only go so long..... We decided to hire a guide service to head out for a day of horseback riding!!! You heard that right, gang...the intrepid Bravo crew was heading out via yet another new mode of travel. Figured it would lead to plenty of photo op's, if not opportunities for some new injuries!!!
After driving out to his enormous ranch (started by "el abuelo de mi abuelo", his grandfather's grandfather) the five of us saddled up with our weathered ranch owner/trusty guide, Rosario, and headed up a steep arroyo to the heights above the sea. It was a great time for all of us (not sure if the beasts of burden would agree!!!)
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| Here's a ranch with it's priorities straight!!! |
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| Not a lot of marbling on these "lil' doggies"...When you see what they have for grazing land, you can see why! |
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| Adam having a short "come to Jesus session" with his mule, before Rosario strapped a spur on his Nike!!! |
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| Moving out...."these critters are climbing up THAT???" Yikes! |
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| Views from the mesa above were spectacular. |
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| Finally time to head back down the steep canyon...Rosario and his mule first, but the others weren't so sure! |
All in all, it was a great ride, seeing country that most cruisers don't experience. When we got back to the ranch, our guides prepared a tasty bbq with arracherra beef and cheese made on the ranch. Zach set up a "slackline" between two trees, and all who wanted to gave it a go (including our guides). A good time had by all, before making our way back to town.
We've continued to be busy with boat chores. Minor sail repairs, varnishing, full boat waxing, tracing electrical gremlins, etc. Had a fun new years party last night at the local cruiser's hangout, Club Cruceros. The toast was made at midnight ZULU time (Greenwich Mean Time), which around here is 5pm local time! Made it easy for all of the grey beards and their crews to get back to their boats before dark, if they wanted (the 'Bravo' team, though, as you'd hope, did stay out after dark!)
Well, that's it for this first blog post of 2012. So as we enter another chapter in this journey, we'd like to wish all of you a very happy new year, filled with happiness, adventure, and discovery. Central America, here we come!!!
Labels:
horseback riding,
La Paz,
Los Islotes,
sea lions,
slackline
Friday, December 16, 2011
Back aboard in La Paz after whirlwind US visit
Well, we're sort of back to where we left off when we last posted. That is, we're still in La Paz, actually still at the same marina, Palmira, that Bravo's called home since November 10. But there's been no moss growing on our north sides, and as of this week, there are no barnacles growing on Bravo's bottom either.
We left Bravo in her slip while we headed up to the U.S. for a couple of weeks of visiting with family and friends. La Paz/LAX/Wash DC/Harrisburg, PA/Wash DC/Seattle/LAX and finally, La Paz again. It was a hectic but fun trip, as we jammed in lots of visiting, eating, shopping, doctors, dentists, drinking, and oh yeah, did we mention "eating"??? Great to see folks, and sorry to those we missed...we'll be back in a few months, hope to do better on scheduling!
While in Harrisburg visiting with Adam's sister and her family, and his dad Lou, we spent a day joining Lou at the senior center that he goes to a few times weekly. While there, it was time for aerobics class.....led by a 92 year aerobics instructor!!!!! She was terrific. Yes, both Adam and Cindi were able to keep up, but admit to breaking a sweat!!!!!
Thanksgiving was spent up in Anacortes at the Hawkens place. Had a great time, and even took out the "Golden Troll" for some dungeness crabs the day after the holiday. Tasty business!!!
All in all, it was a great visit back to the states, marking our 1 year anniversary of cruising in Mexico. It was really wonderful to see so many old friends, but it really felt great to finally arrive back aboard Bravo. She was safe and sound as we left her.
But then the projects began...here are a few of the things we've been up to since we got back about 10 days ago:
*Watermaker rebuild: Took entire beast apart to install new manifolds and membranes, as the water quality was getting up to about 800 ppm. They say that membranes should last around 5 years, and as we've owned Bravo for 10 without replacement (and don't know how old they were then), it seemed like they didn't owe us much!!! The project took about 3 full days, as the thing is a monster...motor/pump assembly alone weighs approx 100 pounds. It's an aging relic of a watermaker, and some parts are getting pretty long in the tooth. But it finally went back together, and with the new membranes we're now making extremely pure water, with a total salinity content of just 125 ppm. (most sources say that a person can't even taste salt in water until approx 1000 ppm).
*Upholstery: Cindi has been busy sewing new covers for all of the cushions in the main salon...Bravo is looking SHARP!!!
*Haul out: We hauled Bravo out of the water for bottom paint. Just splashed back in this morning.....went very well. Palmar yard had a modern 60 ton travel lift, and their great crew was really careful with our home.
*Finish case for dive compressor
*Varnishing...5 coats needed, as the summer in the Sea of Cortez really took it's toll
*Fix a multitude of plumbing challenges...the Mayor of Bravo has really been having issues with the Water Department lately....ahhhhhh.....leaky toilet pumps, plugged sinks, and watermaker pre filter leaks.......
But as all of that continues, we've really been enjoying La Paz. It's a great town to explore, and though the weather has been chilly (low 60's at night.....brrrrrr.......), it makes it easy to get things done. Here are a few photos taken as the city starts to ramp up for Christmas.....
Went to a great carnivore's delight the other night...a pig roast at a local bbq joint, The Shack. The guys cook a mean pig!!! And while devouring a chunk of beast, I looked up at the wall (where folks can sign w/ a Sharpie), I saw names of old sailing friends CB and Tawn from Seattle!!! We've just learned that they were visiting here last month (without their boat) while we were in the states.....Small world indeed!!!
As the pig said, that's it for now...we'll be in La Paz through new years, when we'll start to work our way south.....cheers!
We left Bravo in her slip while we headed up to the U.S. for a couple of weeks of visiting with family and friends. La Paz/LAX/Wash DC/Harrisburg, PA/Wash DC/Seattle/LAX and finally, La Paz again. It was a hectic but fun trip, as we jammed in lots of visiting, eating, shopping, doctors, dentists, drinking, and oh yeah, did we mention "eating"??? Great to see folks, and sorry to those we missed...we'll be back in a few months, hope to do better on scheduling!
While in Harrisburg visiting with Adam's sister and her family, and his dad Lou, we spent a day joining Lou at the senior center that he goes to a few times weekly. While there, it was time for aerobics class.....led by a 92 year aerobics instructor!!!!! She was terrific. Yes, both Adam and Cindi were able to keep up, but admit to breaking a sweat!!!!!
| 25 hungry folks ready for dinner!!! |
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| Gray works on a roast beef, while Brian dispatches a couple of ducks |
All in all, it was a great visit back to the states, marking our 1 year anniversary of cruising in Mexico. It was really wonderful to see so many old friends, but it really felt great to finally arrive back aboard Bravo. She was safe and sound as we left her.
But then the projects began...here are a few of the things we've been up to since we got back about 10 days ago:
| Watermaker w/ motor and pump removed |
*Upholstery: Cindi has been busy sewing new covers for all of the cushions in the main salon...Bravo is looking SHARP!!!
*Finish case for dive compressor
*Varnishing...5 coats needed, as the summer in the Sea of Cortez really took it's toll
*Fix a multitude of plumbing challenges...the Mayor of Bravo has really been having issues with the Water Department lately....ahhhhhh.....leaky toilet pumps, plugged sinks, and watermaker pre filter leaks.......
But as all of that continues, we've really been enjoying La Paz. It's a great town to explore, and though the weather has been chilly (low 60's at night.....brrrrrr.......), it makes it easy to get things done. Here are a few photos taken as the city starts to ramp up for Christmas.....
| ".....that's all, folks!!!!!" |
Monday, November 14, 2011
Civilization...not all it's made out to be!!!
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| Beautiful Sierra La Giganta range on the spine of the Baja |
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| Military checkpoint...hey, times are tough down here too!!! |
Wow, was it ever a great feeling to be back aboard Bravo, back to our more relaxed pace of travel at say 7 miles per hour than trying to pass semi's in a hail of gravel at 70. We got all of the new gear stowed and headed south, backtracking much of our route of earlier in the year. We did have some new anchorages to explore, and the really great thing was that the temps have now dropped to allow happy hiking. And the hiking opportunities on the Baja and the islands are fantastic.
The other bonus was that as we worked south, the water clarity improved dramatically, which made for terrific snorkeling and scuba opportunities.
But every silver lining has a cloud, or some other cliche oughta fit here... As we got closer to La Paz, the anchorages were no longer our own. We were now sharing them with not just other cruisers, as had been the case in the northern Sea this summer, but also with a multitude of mega power yachts based in La Paz. And with them come their toys.....spelled J-E-T S-K-I-I-S....Man we hate those suckers, as they seem to love to use Bravo as their turning mark of their course. Ahhhh....civilization.....
Except for our reentry issues, though, these past few weeks have really been fun and active. Since we've been unable to post any photos without internet, we'll include a few here of some recent exploits. Unfortunately our MacBook has died an ugly graphics card death, so we don't have access to most of our photos until our return to the US later this month.
Hiking: As noted, the hikes have been great. One good thing about the desert, is that in many places, trails are just not that important...you can just pick a distant destination or peak and scramble up there. Not at all like our Pacific NW haunts, here the undergrowth is non existent, and if you're willing to risk the occasional backtrack at a cliff or boulder impasse, it seems to work well.
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| Cindi with friends Sushi the desert pug and Pat from The Rose |
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| Cortez angelfish guards his buddy, a moray eel. He was actually pretty aggressive about it! |
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| King angelfish make willing subjects |
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| Sea star going to work on a tasty oyster |
Fishing report: The fishing has continued to be outstanding. Mainly dorado these days. This 50" beauty kept us feasting for several days!!!
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| Dorado tacos for lunch...hard to beat!! |
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| Duct tape holding a favorite pair of shorts together for just a couple of more weeks!!! |
Here's our Mexican "courtesy flag" as we reenter La Paz...already have a crisp new one flying!! I wonder if our flag was the reason Bravo was boarded 6 times this summer by the Mexican navy???? Do ya think?????
That's all for now. Hopefully will have more photos after we get our Mac repaired... (fingers crossed!!!)
We'll be heading back to the US tomorrow, flying out of La Paz, and will be back in early December. More boat projects ahead, as we will haul out of the water for bottom painting, and a rather lengthy list of other boat jobs. Will likely be in La Paz until after New Years, when it will be time to set sail for Central and South America.
Labels:
Baja,
fishing,
hiking,
Sea of Cortez,
Sierra La Giganta
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