Around Otavalo...."breathtaking"!!!

Lago Cuitocha, w/ cuy butt island on left

We've had a great couple of days exploring the Otavalo region.  Two days ago, we rented mountain bikes, and with our excellent local guide, Luis, we headed up to Lago Cuitocha, at 10,065 feet above sea level.  The lake, an old volcano crater, is named (in Quechua language) for one of the two islands in the middle, which looks like a cuy's hind end.  It does, sort of!!

Adjusting bikes at the start

Bikes had "US Aid" stickers.  Not sure significance, but if America is helping to put folks on bikes, we're all for it!!

Happily we took the bikes to the lake by truck from the town of Cotacachi, but still had a few hundred feet of climbing to do.  Yikes, just 2 days from our sea level home, the climbs had these "sea slugs" puffing like old 3-pack-a-day smokers !!!

Luis at start of single track trails

But at last we started down the great single track trail.  Really a fun descent, the trail eventually widened out onto dirt roads, that we followed for many miles through indigenous villages and farmland. 

As it was Sunday, we continually passed local families on the way to church, and with the exception of some curmudgeonly dogs who weren't aboard with the whole biking program, it was a really beautiful ride.  Luis, from a nearby community, gave us great insight into the local culture and lifestyles of the indigenous people.

Eventually we were back in Cotacachi, where we returned the bikes and hopped a bus back to Otavalo.  Thanks, Luis, for a fantastic ride!

View from our hotel room.

Yesterday we decided to go hiking in the hills around Otavalo.  Starting out from our hotel room, we found the dirt and cobble track to follow up toward Parque Condor, a raptor rehabilitation center that we'd read about.

The route climbed continually through beautiful Andean farmland, as we hiked our way up toward the park.

Eventually we arrived at Parque Condor, and learned that the "daily" live flying demonstrations were done every day except Monday, the day of our visit.  Nonetheless we were allowed to enter the park and wander around the various hawks, eagles, kestrels and of course Andean condors, the largest birds in the world.

It was a beautiful place, perched on the top of the hill, with spectacular views all around.  Most of the birds are caged in large, well fitted out cages, where they are either kept until well enough to release back into the wild, or remain if their injuries keep them from reentering the wild environment.

Black chested buzzard eagle, with bald eagle in the background

Andean condor

Harris hawk

When we were done with our visit, we asked the owner about a trail that we'd heard about to a waterfall in the valley below.  His reaction was pretty funny.  He looked us each up and down, stroked his chin, and said "I don't think that trail's for you"!!!!!!  I mean, really!!!!!!!!!  Well, obviously the gauntlet was thrown, and down we went.

Although a fairly steady slope for the most part over a faint overgrown track, we eventually hit the steep parts, and swung like monkeys from the young eucalyptus trees as we made our way down the steep ravines to the river below.

 The trail led us to a town, where we followed an abandoned railroad track back to Otavalo.  All in all, a beautiful 9 mile hike through the Andean foothills.

Today we'll take a bus back to Quito, and another to Latacunga, where we'll spend several days in the region of the volcano Cotapaxi.

Ecuador rambles begin.....

A couple of days ago, we buttoned up 'Bravo' as well as we could.  All on deck which could not be locked was secured below, lines to our two mooring anchors were checked and rechecked, and we (more than a bit nervously) left her behind in Bahia while we head out for about one month to explore Ecuador.

Took an 8 hour bus ride to Quito.  Wow, what a change to be in a truly big city!!!  Traffic and crowds are not our day-to-day these days, and it was quite a shock to the system.  But Quito is a vibrant, interesting city, perched high in the Andes.  At 9,350 feet above sea level, it is the highest capitol city in the world.  These sea-level dwelling boat slugs noticed it right away, as we hiked up the 3 flights of stairs to our room at Hostel Sakti.  A nice, clean place to hang our hats, and it's hard to beat the $20/night cost.

With 7 images of Jesus in the cockpit, we felt safe indeed!!!

The next day, after a bit of shopping at the local climbing/trekking shops which are as common as rain drops in Seattle, we hopped another bus to Otavalo, an indigenous small city high in the mountains.  From what we read, the town should provide a great base of operations for several days, starting with the weekly Saturday market the morning after arrival.

This market, the largest in Latin America, actually has 3 parts. 

First, is the animal market, where indigenous people from all of the surrounding villages come to buy and sell critters.  As the saying goes....."they didn't throw this party for us!!!...."

It was an overwhelming scene, and not for those with strong P.E.T.A. sensitivities.  Animals of all sorts were being pushed, pulled, and shoved all around, as they were inspected and sold to their new owners.  We're talking large as well as small, old and young. 

So here are a few shots that tell the story.....

 

After a bit of walking about it was breakfast time, and the food stalls were smelling pretty good, even if we couldn't identify most of the delicacies.  Cindi settled on a hunk of pork with hominy, potatoes, a fried plantain, and salad.  Tasty business!!!

Adam was looking for a barbequed cuy (guinea pig), but apparently those just aren't suitable breakfast fare!!!

Cuy ladies looking for the big score!

But we did see lots of cuy changing hands, and soon the "cuy ladies" lining the path became a common sight.

Ahhhhh....here's a tasty one!!!

There were deals galore for the shrewd negotiator!!

Cindi was befriended by a woman selling finely woven scarves for $3.50 each.  The negotiations were fun for both sides, and we're the proud owners of four of the beauties.

Otavalo "drive-in movie"....the screen was small, but the interest was intent

After the animal market we headed up to the weekly street market, where vendors set up street stalls throughout the city.  Anything imagined could be found, and we spent hours wandering the streets.

"Snake oil" seller shows the magic of his elixer for eye health.....

After wandering the streets for a few hours, we moved to the permanent market, set up in "Poncho Square".  Here we found all sorts of weavings, grains and spices, leather work, and more.  Truly a hard to believe rabbit warren of smells, colors and people, it went on and on and on.  And yes, we bought a few things, after we found the post office will ship back to 'Bravo' in Bahia, to be waiting at the marina when we return in a month.

All in all, a great welcome to the wonders of Ecuador that await!!!

Tour de France Special Commemerative Blog Post

The Bravo crew went bike shopping a few days ago.

You may recall that we took our fancy folding  bikes, custom made "Bike Friday" cuties home from Mexico last year.  They were just too precious to adapt to this cruising lifestyle....frequent trips in the dinghy to shore, common salt spray showers, etc.  Ouchhhh...  As much as we've always loved biking, we figured when we arrived at a spot where we wanted bikes, we'd pick up a couple of, well, "not carbon" beasties.

Here in Bahia, it seems that everyone is on bikes.  So we set out on a mission, one that brought us to a great little streetside recycling "shop".  A guy here takes discarded bikes and mixes and matches parts to put "useable" steeds together.  Even gives them a paint job with the color of your choice.  "New" rubber, and brakes that sort of work, at least when you're not going down a hill !!!   All for about $50 per bike!!!  Perfect!!!  Carbon fiber, highly over rated!!!

Rusty rims get silver paint...."good as new"!!!

The shop itself is a bit primitive by US standards.  Mostly it's called "the sidewalk".  But inside the shop is a pile of raw materials, old rides that have long been abandoned, in a field, on a beach, in the jungle, wherever.  The shop's bike maestro orchestrates the scrounging of a complete bike out of the heap for you.  "Come back in two days".

Cindi admires Adam's original selection in the "showroom".

Bingo.  The bikes are ready (almost).  Had to swap Adam's ride
 for another, as he couldn't find tires that fit.  Too bad, as the original model had a very cool rack WELDED onto the back, made of REBAR!!!  I think the extra weight over the rear wheel must've given great traction!!!

One of the 4 wheels was flat the first morning, will be fixed today.  All good!!!

Great crowd celebrates Team Barcelona's soccer victory.  For el "Idol de Ecuador", the celebration continues!

And we'll have to see about a yellow jersey!!!  Should be a few available after the Team Barcelona festivities die down!!!

Ecuador at last!!!

Well, we arrived at the mouth of the Rio Chone yesterday morning just before high tide as scheduled.  But it wasn't an easy final push to the finish line of this passage!!!  On Thursday, the 5th and last full day underway, the wind built all morning, while heading from the SW more toward the S.  We found ourselves on a tight reach in 20-25 knots, with the seas not too large, perhaps 7-8', but very lumpy.  Moving around the boat became more awkward as we lurched about like drunken sailors (though only wishing we were!!!).  Spray over the boat was continual as it got dark, and it was a long night with sleep for the off watch sailor being hard to come by.

Finally, though, just past midnight, it was all hands on deck.  We were about to cross the equator, an imaginary line in the sea but a big milestone for both of us.  King Neptune was about to allow us into his realm, and see us no longer as pollywogs, but as full fledged shellbacks!!!  We joined him in a wee dram of rum, and after careful deliberation, he allowed the following:

"Whereas by our Royal Consension, Our Trusty, Well Beloved Adam Kerner and Cynthia Brennan have this day entered Our Domain.  We do hereby declare to all whom it may concern that it is Our Royal Will and Pleasure to confer upon them the Freedom of the Seas without undue ceremony.  Should either of them fall overboard, We do command that all Sharks, Dolphins, Whales, Mermaids and other dwellers in the Deep are to abstain from maltreating their persons.  And we further direct all Sailors, Adventurers, and other General Reprobates who have not crossed Our Royal domain, to treat them with the respect due to One of Us.  Given under Our Hand at Our Court on board the sailing vessel 'Bravo' on the Equator in Longitude 80d37.8' on this 29th day of June in the year 2012. 

(Signed)

Neptune  (Rex)

We downed our rum, King Neptune downed his, and we continued to bash our way through the night toward Ecuador, arriving on the coast at dawn.  All in all an excellent passage, rough on day/night 1 when we crossed the ITCZ (Inter Tropical Convergence Zone) and the tight beat on day/night 5, delightful in the middle. 'Bravo' performed beautifully, taking a real pounding to weather and pulling through in fine form.  Here are a few shots from the voyage.

Boobie riding on the bow before dark.  He stayed sleeping there for hours, until a rude awakening when a squall hit and we had to furl the headsail and change to the staysail.  Sorry, buddy!

Passing Malpelo Island, about 12 miles away.

There's an old saying among fisherfolk...."When you rest, the fish rests..."  Here we're both taking a bit of a break!!!  Note the regulation fish fighting undies!!!

The beautiful sailfish coming to the boat before release.

Another squall line ahead.....Damn!!!

Squalls all around on radar.  Rings are 2 miles apart.  True wind speed in the lower left corner, boat speed on the right, as we flew along trying keep all under control.

Another squall on the way....

So, what are our first impressions of Ecuador??  Great!  We were met by our pilot, Pedro at the appointed spot, "the waiting room".  He came aboard to guide us over the shallow shifting sand bar at the mouth of the river.  Other than the shallows, it was a piece of cake...no breakers like we'd had in El Salvador.  Came in with a French catamaran, Zephyr, arriving from the Galapagos.

The entrance to the city of Bahia de Caraquez was an interesting juxtaposition, with Mayan Indians in dugout canoes fishing for shrimp in front of high rise apartment buildings. 

Bravo moored in Ecuador (center of photo)

We came around the corner and saw the mooring field in front of Puerto Amistad, which will be 'Bravo's home for the next 6 months or so.  Looks great to us.  The weather:  it's THE DRY SEASON here.  NO lightning, NO rain, NO winds to speak of!!!  And mid 70's at night for easy sleeping!!!  As much as we loved cruising in Central America, it became obvious to us that exploring the region in the rainy season was just, well, WRONG!!!  And we just learned that one of the boats we were with in Costa Rica, Espiritu, was just hit by lightning, making 2 of the boats we've shared anchorages with in the country being hit over the past few weeks.  It's just not worth the risk.  So we're excited to be here, with an entire continent of adventures awaiting exploration.  Yeee-hah!!!

Went for a walk around the city today.  Bahia de Caraquez, with around 28,000 folks, seems a peaceful typical small city.  Not at all touristy, it's clean and friendly and genuine, we liked it right away.  We think it will provide us with a great home base for a while. 

Walk along the malecon

 Transportation rules here seem a bit........... ummmmmm......casual!!!

A family takes their golden retriever to the beach.  How else, the scooter!!!

Room for one more little guy????

"All aboard!  Vamanos!!!"

Butterfly landed on the sidewalk at our feet.

I think we're going to like this town!!!!!